Have you ever looked at a skincare ingredient list and come across the words squalene or squalane, without really knowing what they mean? Well! You’re not alone. While their names sound almost identical, they behave very differently once applied to the skin. Squalene is a natural oil that your skin produces on its own. However, when used in skincare formulas, it is unstable and can break down when exposed to air, which may lead to clogged pores or breakouts.
Squalane, on the other hand, is a stabilized form of this oil, designed specifically for skincare use. It delivers the same nourishing and moisturizing benefits while remaining lightweight, non-greasy, and safe for daily application.
In this article, let's discuss the two and see how they are different from each other.
The Quick Difference:
| Squalene | Squalane | |
|---|---|---|
| What is it? | A natural lipid your skin makes | A stabilized form of squalene |
| Found where | Naturally in sebum | In skincare products |
| Stability | Unstable, oxidizes easily | Highly stable |
| Shelf life | Very short | Long |
| Texture | Oily | Lightweight, non-greasy |
| Best for skincare? | No | Yes |
What is Squalene?
Squalene is a natural oil produced by our sebaceous glands. In fact, it makes up about 10-15% of our skin’s natural sebum. When the skin is young and healthy, squalene production is high.
Squalene plays a simple yet very crucial role, including:
- Keeps skin soft and flexible
- Prevents moisture loss
- Protects the skin barrier
- Maintains surface smoothness
So, What is the Problem?
Squalene is chemically unstable. When exposed to air and light, it oxidizes quickly. Oxidized squalene doesn’t protect the skin and can actually contribute to irritation, clogged pores, and inflammation. This is the reason pure squalene isn’t used in modern skincare formulations, even though our skin loves it biologically.
What is Squalane?
Squalane is a form of squalene that has been hydrogenated, which means one small chemical adjustment has been made that makes it stable, shelf-safe, and skin-friendly. It is important to note that hydrogenation doesn’t make it harsh or synthetic. It simply prevents oxidation, making it a valuable ingredient in high-performance skincare, including Kayura formulations.
What stays the same?
- Skin-identical structure
- Barrier support
- Moisture retention
- Compatibility with sensitive skin
What changes?
- Stability
- Texture
- Non-greasy feel
- Longer-lasting hydration
Why the Stability of Squalane Matters for Your Skin?
When it comes to skincare ingredients, stability is as important as the ingredient itself. An ingredient can be deeply nourishing, but if it oxidizes (changes its structure) when exposed to air, heat, or light, it may be doing more harm to the skin than any good. Meaning, instead of supporting the skin barrier, it can trigger inflammation, clog pores, or increase sensitivity.
This is why the stability of ingredients in high-performance skincare becomes non-negotiable. A stable ingredient:
- Delivers consistent results from the first use to the last
- Maintains its structure and function on your skin
- Reduces the risk of irritation and breakouts
- Supports long-term barrier health
Is Squalane Natural or Synthetic?
This is a common question! Originally, squalane was sourced from shark liver oil (no longer used due to nature conservation laws). Today, high-quality squalane is plant-derived and usually derived from olive, sugarcane, and rice bran.
How Does Squalane Benefit the Skin?
Squalane is lipophilic, making it more effective with skin oils. Here is what exactly happens when it is applied to the skin:
- Reinforces the Skin Barrier: Squalane fills microscopic gaps between the skin cells. Further, it reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This helps skin stay hydrated for a longer time.
- Deliver Hydration without Heaviness: Unlike thick occlusives, Squalane for skin hydrates without sealing skin off from breathing normally.
- Reduces Inflammation Risk: Because Squalane doesn’t oxidize, it mitigates the risk of inflammation-by-products, a common scenario with unstable oils.
- Improves Tolerance of Active Ingredients: When Squalane is paired with actives like acids, peptides, or zinc oxides, it reduces dryness and irritation. Therefore, when added to advanced formulas, they become more convenient and effective.
Squalane Vs Other Moisturizers
Squalane stands apart from other moisturizers available on the market, as it hydrates skin by mimicking the skin’s natural lipids, helping strengthen the barrier without heaviness or irritation. Here are some of the common differences between Squalane-based formulas and common moisturizers:
| Ingredient | How it Feels |
|---|---|
| Hyaluronic Acid | Can feel tight without lipids |
| Shea Butter | Heavy, occlusive |
| Oils (General) | Can clog or sit on top |
| Squalane | Lightweight, breathable |
Talking about the Squalane’s pairing with other ingredients brings us to Kayura’s formulations. Here are a few Kayura products that feature Squalane and offer effective results. These are:
Dew Restore | Barrier Repair Cream
In Dew Restore, Squalane plays a quiet but essential role. It focuses on calming inflammation and rebuilding the barrier by
- Reinforcing lipid balance
- Preventing moisture loss
- Improving tolerance for sensitive skin
- Making the cream feel more nourishing and not heavy
No Ray, Thanks | Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++
Squalane, when added to Kayura’s mineral sunscreen formula, prevents tightness from zinc oxide, supports the skin barrier, and keeps hydration balanced. This result is a mineral-based sunscreen that:
- Feels comfortable
- Ideal for sensitive skin
- Doesn’t clog pores
- Layers well under makeup
How to Use Squalane in Your Daily Routine?
Squalane integrates seamlessly into daily skincare routines without interfering with active ingredients or treatment steps. You can use it in two simple ways:
Pick one approach per routine:
- Use pure squalane oil, layered into your routine
- Or use products that feature squalane, like moisturizers or barrier-repair creams (like Dew Restore)
Both work. Choose based on how minimal or layered your routine is.
Morning Routine
- Cleanse
- Serum
- Moisturize with squalane (either oil or Dew Restore)
- Mineral Sunscreen (like No Rays, Thanks)
Night Routine
- Cleanse
- Treatment or exfoliant (if using)
- Moisturize with squalane (either oil or Dew Restore)
As we have reached almost the end of the article, we can easily say that:
- Squalene is essential inside the skin but unstable outside it.
- Squalane is stable, skin-identical, and designed for topical use.
Simply put, Squalane is a better choice for skincare products. It delivers the benefits your skin needs, without the downsides of oxidation, heaviness, or irritation. That’s what makes it effective enough to perform and gentle enough to use every day.
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